Whilst couture is generally out of reach for about 95% of the world’s population, there is no reason we can’t appreciate the artistry involved.
The question of what couture is and should be comes around every season, should it inspire the stuff of fantasies or inform reality? Last week Paris played host to Springs couture week, and it did not disappoint, we’ve got all the gossip from the spring catwalks, from Cara at Chanel to Christian Dior’s first couture collection sans Raf Simmons. Read on for our top pick of standout shows and backstage photos.
Following the surprise departure of Raf Simmons, Christian Dior was left without a designer, meaning the creative team were thrust into the limelight for Spring couture collections. Held in the mirrored rooms at Musee Rodin as always, the shows front rows were lined with whispers and gossip over which designer will be taking over the house , Sarah Burton ? Hedi Slimane? Nevertheless swiss designers Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux who are currently in charge of the house, created an enviable collection filled with origami folds, tailored suit jackets and dark florals.
The queens of couture didn’t disappoint , Valentino sent its models down the runway in light chiffon gowns emblazoned with aged velvet motifs and intricate detailing only seen at a couture show. Tresses were held back with bespoke gold snake crowns, which have become a major talking point for this season, whilst models pranced barefoot down the runway like nymphs in flowing couture.
King Karl enlisted BFF Cara Delevigne (and her scene stealing puppy) to sit front row whilst models of the moment Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner walked through the zen garden themed catwalk amongst fellow models. The show had a wave of cool calm which detached it from others this season, whilst white was a definitive theme throughout. Karl embraced all things eco with Chanel’s couture offerings, explaining “This is high-fashion ecology. It must not look like some sloppy demonstration!” The set in the Grand Palais was designed to decompose naturally, whilst 3d printing and wood chips were incorporated as decorative techniques for clothing. The presentation was a stark contrast to last seasons tech filled couture offerings.
If you loved Rihanna’s Met Gala dress, you will love this collection, filled with all the flounce and candy coloured organza of your dreams. Frothy and exuberant shapes ensured this a standout show full of Oscar worthy gowns. Giambattista Valli’s inspiration was drawn from Parisian gardens, the designer noted that the collection was a thank you to Paris. Our standout was a finale dress crafted from layer upon layer of deep red tulle.
Lilac was a huge theme at Armani, so much so that around 47/ 56 looks were purple hued! Lilac paired with airy fabrics and organza embellished gowns worn with striking jet black waved hair created a dark moody twist on a classic pastel palette.
Versace’s show opened with luxe sports/ski-wear which then slowly descended into flowing dresses adorned with Swarovski crystals. True to form at Versace, there were cut outs and slits aplenty with geometrically patterned fabrics hugging every curve. It is clear that designers are opting to top themselves each season with regards to technology , using the most scientifically relevant techniques available, Donatella noted that this was collection was the most time consuming yet. Versace muse Gigi Hadid closed the show in a slinky cut out tethered together with Swarovski ropes.