Dishoom is one of those places people talk about before you’ve even suggested it. It comes with its own backstory – built on years of waiting lists, glowing recommendations passed between friends and that rare ability to feel both widely known and still a genuine favourite.
I’d eaten at the London restaurant before, so was excited to see if that same sense could be replicated in my own city. Reassuringly it has been, leaning into what Dishoom does well. Inside, there’s the familiar aesthetic of dark wood, marble and low lighting without veering into pastiche. Nothing feels over-styled or forced. It’s busy, but not frantic.
We were shown to a table overlooking Chamberlain Square, which, as locations go, is hard to beat. What struck me, as we read through the menu, was how well the room is handled. It was full, properly full, but nothing felt rushed or overlooked. The staff were friendly in a way that didn’t feel overly polished, and that balance is harder to get right than it looks.
We started with the okra fries, which are as addictive as everyone says. Crisp, lightly spiced and impossible to leave alone, they arrived quickly, hot and fresh, and set the tone for the rest of the meal. Alongside them, the pau bhaji – a rich, gently spiced vegetable mash – came with with soft, buttery buns which were delicious. It’s comfort food, but done with a lightness that stops it feeling heavy.
For mains, the Lamb Rara was the stand-out. It had real depth – that layered, slow-cooked flavour that feels just a little indulgent (the menu describes it as having “much stirring and vigour”). There was heat there, but controlled rather than overwhelming. The Roomali Roti was perfect for scooping up every last bit without getting in the way. The Makhmali Paneer offered a very tasty contrast – it was creamier, more subtle, and grilled with cashews and pomegranate. If you’re sharing, the two together work well – one rich and spiced, the other calmer, more rounded.
Dessert felt almost inevitable, despite the fact we were ready to loosen out belts. Dishoom’s Chocolate Pudding with Kashmiri Chilli Ice Cream has a reputation of its own, and it earns it. With a soft, molten centre, it’s rich in the way a proper chocolate pudding should be. The chilli ice cream sounds like it might be a gimmick, but it isn’t and had enough of a slow-burn to cut through the sweetness.
What Dishoom does well – and what Birmingham gets right – is it manages to feel considered without feeling overworked. There’s a confidence to it, the fact it doesn’t need to push too hard because it already knows what it does well. And that’s why it works. You don’t feel like you’ve been sold an experience, rather you just feel like you’ve had a very good meal.
One Chamberlain Sq, Birmingham B3 3AX | Phone: 0121 809 5986 | www.dishoom.com
